Friday, June 24, 2022

Day #64-The trail provides. Miles hiked: 1.2

Blogs are not for dirty laundry and I have a strong ethic of viewing others in the image of God and giving them the benefit of the doubt and kindness. However, two weeks ago I walked into Leadville, CO and was blindsided by devastating news that I would be continuing on the Divide alone. 

As far from my hopes for this hike as this was (for the past 5 years, it’s been an adventure I’d looked forward to sharing with a dear friend), I took it in stride and walked on. It has been messy and sad and lonely. I am grieving the loss of a friendship I held close to my heart. There have been positive moments like meeting my friend Lamar on top of Mt. Flora, but mostly I have been totally isolated, often afraid, and sometimes in real danger with no backup. The trail is no harder or scarier than it has been the 1000 miles before this, but not knowing what lies on the back side of a climb has a different vibe when there’s no one around. I haven’t seen another thru hiker on trail or in town in 300 miles. I have hiked alone and traveled alone and thrived alone, but there has been no thriving. I have been exhausting my physical, mental, and emotional resources to survive. 

Nonetheless, I’ve held on and continued to try to network and find other hikers who would welcome all parts of me—the parts of me that are a hiker and the parts of me that are a budding healer (and yes, this comes with responsibilities back home that I cannot 100% unplug from) and the parts of me that are building my own sanctuary (and calling about windows and doors and siding) and the parts of me that desperately need to experience a full range of emotions on this journey. I mess up sometimes and rudely answer the phone when I misinterpret the situation, and I forgive and ask grace both when I cause and receive insult from situations like this one. Those hikers are out here, but they are weeks behind and not sustaining a pace (rightly so!) that will get me to school on time. I could shape myself into a worthy candidate for re-entry into my former crew, but I’m afraid I would no longer recognize myself. I could continue alone.

I have been preparing to choose the latter, but the 900 miles of the CDT that walks through grizzly country is fast approaching. I’ve weighed the risks, assessed the situation, and reweighed and reassessed. People hike through grizzly alone every year. They are fine. However, the trail will no longer be home if I am constantly paranoid by every breaking twig. It is by far the most important stretch of triple crown trails to have a group of three or more. Call me chicken, but I’m not going to do it alone. I’m also not going to be anyone other than who I am in exchange for the protection of a warm body. 

There are three major goals and needs on the table, and I can only choose two: the completion of my hike and 2nd installment of my triple crown, my safety, and myself (and all of the messy passion that comes with her). 

If you know me, you know that through hell and high water I finish what I start. It doesn’t need to be fun or comfortable or easy. In fact, the harder,  gnarlier, and more insane it is, the better! Thru hiking requires this kind of spirit, but it also requires a spirit of reverence and humility. Steamboat Springs, CO is the northern terminus of my time on the CDT this year. I am going home to my community of badass women (and dogs and family and other folks) who embrace all parts of me, still love to go on sadistic adventures, and are waiting with open arms. 

I am leaving the trail for now to save Blueberry, my very most favorite version of myself who laughs until she pees, walks with God in the cool of the afternoon, and gets to take up all the space she needs so others might have the freedom and the courage to do the same. Turns out saving my love affair with thru hiking requires an act that is, for me, braver than any traverse with my ice axe. However, Blueberry must live to see the completion of her triple crown (and her MD/MPH and the healing of many and possibly overturning a seat for congress in TN District 1-watch out folks haha). 

Keep my blog in your favorites bar…I’ll be back and anyone who knows me knows I’m dead serious. But for now, happy trails.

Leave no trace.


Day #63-Mountains to rivers to roads. Miles hiked: 26.4

Today was almost completely on dirt and paved roads. While my joints and feet weren’t excited to be back on a hard surface, boy it sure was easier to walk!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1K3fmBrUKpgEN-ZWSwfjhbWzIOVpQz6Oz
I even passed a lovely trail magic setup on the way. Thanks to the kind man who sits in this camper all summer long to give hikers water and company amd homemade ice cream in a barren section of trail. He also dug out a spring up the way for us so we don’t have to worry about water.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vsUzbEJlWId_q3PNg-NcrEu47t5AHajw
Today was otherwise a chance to welcome back my cow friends and my mosquito friends. Time to make sure both those bug nets and water filters are up and running!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EvneQSAnYbDPH5_LQkcz2IohADfSdlCvhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1sWB_tHRo_tyKBCbshRpUrf99D1b8-Pzf
Twelve miles of highway later, I decided to sleep at Rabbit Ears Pass and hitch into Steamboat Springs tomorrow for resupply.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tfVxEb66q-WxVt01GD_AHDSuH59IfH9S

Day #62-Are we there yet? Miles hiked: 28.8

This morning held what I think was actually the last 3k ft climb of CO: Parkview Mtn. It took quite a few snacks to make it up, but I passed some rocks that reminded me of Dragon’s Tooth on the AT along the way. 
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YUZ0PCGqGX3YE6zzopgVriGjKyG2TKqv
Once on top, I got both views and a nice shelter that blocked the wind for a bit of a breather.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vvP8ywb3ojzpH-nmaZ18B0SOHG4fCiqphttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14r-ek-xpIrIIWFlkuql_YEV_SFrp_eeT
The rest of the day was anothe ridge walk with some steep climbs but wonderful wildflowers of all types as well.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gyrLakrlt2FHoKu6muze-qwqwAwiGvZC
By evening I made it back below tree line and camped along the dirt road that will take me all the way to Steamboat Springs, the last trail town stop in CO!

Day #61-Paying for a miscalculation. Miles hiked: 28.7

Today started with a magical ride from Golden back to Grand Lake with a dear family friend, RA. He’s been friends with my mom since long before I was born and it was great to catch up. Thanks for the lift!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JK7muPk0cU1wqq59pLCcWdDnvPvTFZ9d
After leaving Grand Lake, I spent most of my morning walking through a burn scar and admiring all of the wildflowers that are first on the scene to regrow from the charred soil.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qcK73dHken1VNGVeAl-JtzFTxsNFaxja
I also saw two more moose and was sure to give them plenty of room.

After lunch came my miscalculation…although I had joyfully claimed I was done with snow and 3k foot climbs, I realized I had misread my map and had all of the above ahead of me. Entering the Never Summer Wilderness, I would venture to guess whoever named it might have been a CDT hiker.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hUpR2gB0TW-02hw2owaTgOeSQQPj9hcs
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SDU45Bn_GOWFLjCjx4gTy682bgdP3mNf
By the end of the slog, I was rewarded with great views and managed a sneaky little road walk to get around the postholing on the back side.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CIBj0oK7V7Y5713flmhYT1pm2fIMvJKa
Goodnight from a campsite tucked behind some live trees in a sea of burnt ones. 

Monday, June 20, 2022

Day #60-A second more…horizontal…zero day. Miles hiked: 0.0

After battling for Olympic glory yesterday, today was for actually resting. I enjoyed lunch with Julie’s friends, napping, driving a car (it went so fast!), resupplying, and getting ready for the last stretch of CO.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iYVKd5TkeZ85VUGn3gsxqi3btCHK5cjO
Off to Steamboat Springs tomorrow! 

Sunday, June 19, 2022

Day #59-Olympic glory and feeling normal. Miles hiked: 0.0

Today was not exactly a relaxing zero, but boy was it a blast! Thanks to Julie (my rescuer) and about 20 of her friends, I got to spend all day participating in the Beer Olympics. There were games, laughs, craft beers, and just a plain old good time.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11imRZxHHFQfN9dkrnV1mVuFubvWdkznK
After nearly 2 months of living in hiking world, it was so so nice to just feel like a normal person on a normal summer day.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Y_DrN0HctO5_FR3vda6fMekXD2-vachUhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19CRnNp_YDzpOo8ha1mkAou4PSdvqhgQW
Thanks to all for welcoming this weary traveler into your world for the day.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rHSoWc6mZIafFTZQx91HY-hQF4peW7nWhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RCYPpFtLJu2G-S76-gQuLcZ5GZHv-AEW
Goodnight from Golden! 

Saturday, June 18, 2022

Day #58-Sometimes you just have to send it. Miles hiked: 28.1

The post office in Grand Lake closes at 4 pm. It’s not open on Saturday’s. It was Friday and I was 28 miles away. I woke up at 230 am and started walking.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KlII93eFMxEII11PB6ZzzGdjK9pdpBNr
After hiking until 10 the night before, I was tired, but I’m a medical student who is used to call shifts. I wasn’t delivering babies this morning, but heavy eyes are nothing new. However, I did see three moose before 8 am—that kept me awake!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11jK9O2kLYY8XZ61NHPbeIXZfOSKcmYlt
By mid-morning, I started passing lakes and dayhikers and trailheads with pit toilets!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ljp-3E_WxL0ZTGxSzln4zAaOX4nGzXsUhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1sscFPIF7AkEzz808QwGGlwhBS6NXmHND
Several thunderstorms also started popping up around on the high peaks surrounding the lakes. However, I got to enjoy just being thankful I was safe and not up on the ridge anymore.

Also, welcome to Rocky Mountain National Park and the Colorado River!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KO1kQFYOQu-7mUmDbglFdUNH9UcFu5vphttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GxO8t-z-f1RA2JU5rRRpk66r0x3raSG0
By 230, I had reached my goal and rolled into the post officd exhausted. However, I got to spend the afternoon reviving myself under a picnic table in Grand Lake with French fries and vegan ice cream. By evening, I got rescued by a friend of a friend who has taken me to a magical place known as a home for the weekend.

Can’t wait to be away from trail for a few days—will be good for my soul before starting the second half of this hike. Goodnight from Golden,  CO! 

Day #57-A morning angel and battling for miles.Miles hiked: 25.1

I overslept a bit this morning after spending all night trying not to slide off my pad, but it also allowed me to have some sweet company on the first 3k ft climb of the day. I met an older guy out summiting the same peak and got to talk about skiing the entire climb. After weeks of hiking mostly alone, the company was so so sweet.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JsPA_d8EOUdA_9QSi6plq2mtD8Op5xO8
I don’t really care who does and does not believe in angels, but I think Lamar was one. Even though I’ll never see you again, thanks for the conversation. 

Up next was some of the harder miles of Colorado. My feet and ankles got beat up by tallus, then soaked by snow, then re-blistered as I made another 3k ft climb up to James Peak.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1psLxFJf2uqxNoDy5KW2xghf5cUtIe8fBhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1s3azXKThAdEUxTPoQfqi2DKcVmRBNlyU
However, there is hope as this is the last time on this trail that I’ll climb over 13k ft. It’s been fun, but I’m looking foreword to more oxygen.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Y2AIS4eOXiv-bdIDDksaFyLZZ0kMxNyM
What was suposed to be a “flat” rest of the day was covered in my favorite substance…snow. So much for making miles today, but c’est la vie and this trail isn’t suposed to be easy.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-OhcNahuQ4fRY9KHmjSsPXHz2AvWrcdH
It’s going to be a push to finish out my miles to the post office before it closes at 4 tomorrow, but I’m up for the challenge. 

Goodnight from a wildfire (smoke from Arizona) sunset.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JyYhxCdEy8lDetqg5G9xaeRoa0p-ovnL

Day #56-From ditches to peaks to ditches. Miles hiked: 32.1?

Today I vacated one ditch on the side of the highway only to cross multiple mountain ridges and passes to find a new ditch. Welcome to the life of Blueberry. First up was 8 more miles of climbing on highway 6 up and over Loveland Pass (and over the tunnel on I-70…wasn’t about to road walk that). Also, another ski area, A-Basin! 
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JWZHITINN_zRnvdmw84-8yQ0iMduBVIIhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14ix320LYVrwPqcvOdJS7Erd-BdGZYRuy
In case you’re wondering, I think I’ll be more pumped for ski season to start this winter than ever before after passing all of these new spots to make turns. Hiking is Type 2 fun, but skiing is solidly in the Type 1 category. 

After reconnecting with the CDT at I-70, it was time for yet another 3k+ ft climb up to 13k. It’s like I live at that elevation now…
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MZvrZYcydRW0FB8_sFrNJSCMdsVUPVFIhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AxLFoRWn9FntJh2HhURtV8pOSfkFSQMS
The rest of the day was more classic CO with miles and miles of ridgewalking with peaks in between, wind, snow fields, and blazing sun. Am I a human or a mountain goat?
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TYYLdZaV5YQJTGVpNF0NFO0btyanMlD2
By dark I had made it to another highway which had a luxurious heated pit toilet/warming hut. There were “no camping” signs all over the place, but it still took all of my soul to obey and wander down a drainage culvert to find a mediocrely flat spot to lay down. At least I’ll get to do my business in peace and comfort in the morning! 

Day #55-Epic ridges and savvy bailouts. Miles hiked: 28.3?

This morning marked my final climb on the CO trail, and of course it was 3k vertical feet for good measure. Once the CDT became its own route again at Georgia Pass, it was a stark reminder that this trail is wild and brutal. Goodbye to trail markers and hello to tallus fields and ridiculously steep climbs.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iaz8oxOf2k-nvf3O13-g_cwOvBeRBsuh
Oh, also welcome back to getting snowed and nearly knocked over by the wind.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1sYw5HKstBsVF-ebQibnZem8NmYcyEQAL
I won’t lie, this ridge walk was slow-going, cold, and not particularly fun…barely even ate lunch for fear of my food being blown right out of my mouth (which has happened before).
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kaV_4sXEgf44w1_xm39tMj4VxcYuh7hk
By 4 pm, I was starting to get an uneasy feeling in my gut about continuing. As a whitewater boater, a skier, and a future doctor, I have learned to trust and respond to my gut. It was telling me to bail with another knife-edge ridge coming up, so I did. 

After half sliding, half walking down 2000 ft of tallus, I reached a forest service road and made up a route to reconnect with the CDT the next day.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1J1Ieya4uqSwBhBenbJXyGsFaIdhxMRQf
This “Blueberry alternate” missed the high point of the entire continental divide, but it also made more sense for me to be safe. I even got to walk by Keystone (where I made my first turns) and found a cool spring by the road!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1h3vKCRds1Wgh8mmWdojw83-NcWMLpa4nhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18CSVHAdeXrRwRI9cezaM01cJg1iY3hFG
Goodnight from a hidden ditch by highway 6 where I hope the sound of passing semis will gently lull me to sleep.

Day #54-Hit and run town day and mountain bikes galore. Miles hiked: 26.3

Today, I woke up on a mission. First things first, I finished the massive climb I slept in the middle of last night and crested over the top of Breckinridge.

The descent had just as much snow as I’d feared, but it was still firm enough to use microspikes and I’m a postholing extraordinaire at this point. 

A few cruisy miles later, I got down to the highway and hopped on the bus to Frisco. This section had the luxury of cell service most of the way, so my thanks to the folks who have kept me company and encouraged me over the phone. You know who you are. 

After occupying Taco Bell to charge my devices and repackaging a resupply on the sidewalk in front of Walmart, it was back on the bus and to trail.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VPSwFcnHf9sJWbJ7yHQ7_btKY5qMEM0o
Considering I didn’t get back on trail until 3 pm, doing 15 miles in the afternoon was a solid accomplishment. This section of trail was smooth and full of mountain bikers-another fun group of people to chat with. I like their kindness and the fact that bike-accessible trails are wonderfully nice to walk on, a true win-win! 
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1G46L0bRXuET78WI-8bXXsrDOtdadj8Qs
For my efforts, I’ve put myself in a good place for the next push to Grand Lake. I have some gnarly miles ahead, but here we go! 

Monday, June 13, 2022

Day #53-Walking or skiing? Miles hiked: 27.0

After eating leftover spaghetti for breakfast, it was time to hitch back to Tennessee Pass and get back on trail. The first few miles were gentle and even came with these cool-looking bunkers.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dhn2qnk3iXhAioLZMjnkm3zisysCP5Om
Next up was a lovely 2500+ ft Colorado climb up to Kokomo Pass, but I eat these climbs for breakfast now! 
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EOcbg1pt_Q4pBrq3ClENz2uFqGihDFeDhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17ndHH6jEJ_d8SbgXIcsexB0vot21y5HQ
The rest of the afternoon was a slog from dropping off the north side of the pass and contending with waste-deep post holes again. Like it or not, I eat those for breakfast too. 

By evening, I arrived at Copper Mtn ski area and got to go to my favorite place in my head again-ripping down the mountain with GoGo. Winter will come soon enough…
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1OJyLW9KpJPbeCFt1Hkic18Mq0e09VWIh

Goodnight from a small ledge halfway up the climb to Breck! 

Saturday, June 11, 2022

Day #52-Deja vu zero. Miles hiked: 0.0

Today wasn’t supposed to be a zero, but after chores and the sirens of an open bunk with some friends at a hostel, here we are again. But first, vegan breakfast!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14HtWMD1G_UBHz9KttXdflZvBdQAWzO2k
Not much else to report other than cooking and yoga and getting ready for the final 1/3 of CO.
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1l-T1KqUm0vM7xanx00f9hbkWk8-Rpev9https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qvOXZv_JZ7v_ugW0n9mMIQDBNIP9vNOj
Happy trails!

Day #44 (101)-A very different type of finish. Miles hiked: 25.7

Colorado spared nothing on me last night with a hard freeze and plenty of wind, but I was excited for my last CDT sunrise this hike nonethel...