Day #44 (101)-A very different type of finish. Miles hiked: 25.7

Colorado spared nothing on me last night with a hard freeze and plenty of wind, but I was excited for my last CDT sunrise this hike nonetheless.

I stopped for the night essentially above treeline, so I still had 10ish miles of high mountain ridges to traverse as part of the Mount Zirkel Wilderness.

Once out of the wilderness area boundary, the hiking eased up and I enjoyed one last CO thunderstorm to dump rain and try to lightning on me, but at least I wasn’t above treeline this time!

By 430 pm, I arrived back at Dumont Lake Campground, where a little over a year ago I was completely alone and crying myself to sleep daily with grief having lost my friends, fear of grizzly country alone, and shame that came with continuing and “confirming” that I really am “too much” to deserve the wonderful community that is hiking world (which is what I was lectured on when I got left in Leadville). Those things are not true, but it’s really hard to believe it when you’re physically and emotionally exhausted from the Divide itself. 

Today I arrived not unscathed, but centered as Blueberry nonetheless. I am where my feet are—a capable hiker, a physician in training dedicated to her studies, a close friend to the least of these, and someone who finds strength to keep it all spinning through movement and adventure. I know I am often labeled as overcommitted, overachieving, and tightly wound. Those labels used to bother me until I realized they are just attempts at describing Blueberry. She’s signing off from the CDT for now, but her spirit is coming to a Family Medicine residency near you. 

Leave no trace and happy trails! 

Day #43 (100)-Hunting for high peaks. Miles hiked: 32.1

I was going to cowboy camp last night, but made a split second decision to throw up my tarp just in case. Good thing because the rain rolled in at 2 am and stuck around until daybreak. Also…another flat tire, but thanks Jess for the KT tape.

It was still spitting rain when I started hiking, but it certainly wasn’t enough to keep the hunters off trail. Time to wear the blaze orange so I don’t look like an elk.

While much of the CDT can feel very solitary, trails in this area are truly “multi-use” which gives much more opportunity to run into different folks out recreating.

The first half of the day was mainly ATV trails, but it changed character significantly when it was time to climb up into the Mount Zirkel Wilderness.

This entailed a huge climb well over 3k feet that definitely got my little heart rate up. Seven or so miles in, I truly broke through treeline only to see 1500 more feet of mountain to climb up.

As tired as I was, I put on my favorite hype playlist and climbed up anyway into the last sunset of CDT 2023.

But Colorado wasn’t done with me yet. I reached Lone Ranger peak at dark and had just started down the other side when the finale storm arrived. There was wind, lightning, rain, sleet, and hail…and a snow field! In the dark! Needlsss to say I broke into a run to descend down to treeline for some shelter. The spot I found was far from flat, but I hunkered down and let the CDT have her way. Goodnight from 11,500 ft of elevation! 

Day #42 (99)-Walking alone this time. Miles hiked: 22.3

We got back on trail today, but not without the most important meal for stalling leaving town: breakfast! 

And like hikers tend to do, of course we multiplied…good to see French Toast again who I first met in Pinedale several hundred miles ago. The trail just teleports people you think you’ll never see again. 

Once we finally bothered to leave the coffee and stick our thumbs out, we got a quick ride back to Battle Pass and got to work on the last 20 miles of Wyoming.

Gone are the open spaces and cruisy terrain of the Basin, in exchange for lots of steep 500 ft climbs and descents. I personally prefer the long uphills to constantly having to switch gears, but it’s all trail miles.

After walking through several clear cut sections from logging operations, I reached to WY/CO border.

The last time I walked into the state of Colorado on the CDT, it was with three people who I care deeply about but who would ultimately betray me in some of the most deeply painful ways I’ve known. This time I crossed the border alone. I’d be lying to say unscathed, but I know with all my heart I refuse to betray myself. 

Here’s for a do-over, and for being my full Blueberry self…because I do believe she has something to offer the world. I’ll leave no trace, but I’ll also leave it better than I found it. 

Day #41 (98)-Last pit stop. Miles hiked: 19.3

In true CDT fashion, today was an entirely new biome of lodge pole pines and climbs where I could peep over into Colorado.

Also, there was shade!!!

There was also hiking with my new friend, PI, and headed up and over Bridger Peak and down to Battle Pass for a hitch into Encampment, WY.

One last wave to the Great Divide Basin…it was a fun change of scenery for 200 miles or so, but I’m also glad to be back up in the mountains. 

Once we got to Battle Pass, we caught the first car which happened to be a rad couple from Key West, FL on a road trip and kind enough to pick up some hiker trash. 

They even gave us some refreshments to enjoy while picking up packages at the post office.

Although the original plan was to hitch back to trail and keep hiking, the Sirens of town lulled is into a cheap RV site, a shower and the first campfire of the CDT. It cracks me up when people ask me if I build a fire everyday on trail. The answer is absolutely not for both wildfire prevention and mainly exhaustion.

But for tonight, it was a lovely treat after an entire large pizza was consumed in one sitting. Goodnight from my last trail town before Steamboat! 

Day #40 (97)-She’ll be comin’ round the mountain when she comes. Miles hiked: 33.9

Today was a quest for two things: water and mountains. Only 34 miles to get there!

The first water source was Muddy Creek 20ish miles from the last one, and it was well…muddy. Even with pre-filtering the water through a bandana, this was definitely not nice for my poor gravity filter. It will be retired in Steamboat for sure!

Ten more miles of open desert and I started climbing my first bigger hills in 170 miles.

Reward? A piped spring! Oh what a relief to see water that may not have been thoroughly pooped in by cows before I got to it.

Also, plenty of gates in BLM land with handy stickers to remind people to be decent citizens and close the gate.

By dusk, I entered Medicine Bow National Forest and finally began the 4K foot climb out of the Basin and into Colorado. 

Also looks like some other hikers has a little too much fun at Walmart in the last town and bought some scooters to ride a 35 mile road shortcut to this point. Honestly, great idea friends! 

Goodnight from a cowboy camp under the stars and the TREES.

Day #39 (96)-Goats, goodbyes, and naturally flavored water. Miles hiked: 29.3

Duck, PI and I had a really fun time last night swapping stories about our hikes and eating an entire container of ice cream each. Therefore it was understandably difficult to leave the hostel this morning. But first, breakfast!

I also had to say goodbye (or rather “see you later”) to Rattle and Smarts as they’re spending a few days in Rawlins while I move on. I am so thankful for the time I got to hike with them; their friendship came at a critical time in my journey.

Nevertheless, I crossed I-80 and continued south back into the desert. Gone are the luxurious piped cow troughs as the water options today were algae-laced cow doodoo ponds spaced 15 miles apart. Even after filtering my water through a bandana in an attempt to remove the organic material, it tasted just as bad as it looks. Yuck! 

I have 50 miles left of the Great Divide Basin before heading back up into the mountains.

Goodnight from a space in the sage brush that I cleared of cow turds. Onward to Steamboat! 

Day #38 (95)-Oh thank goodness for Rawlins. Miles hiked: 18ish

The glowing orb of the sky returned this morning…and I was in now hurry to get up as I had 18 miles of road walking ahead of me.

Nonetheless I got to catch up on phone calls with dear friends and my feet stayed mostly intact on the walk into Rawlins, WY. 

Much to my chagrin, many of the eateries I have dreamt of through the Basin were still closed for Labor Day today, but got to walk straight into town either way.

Since the Thai place was closed, I turned the hostel I’m staying at into my own Thai place and threw together a pad thai from leftover pantry items from the hiker box and supplies from the Family Dollar. I’m honestly quite proud:

This place is also home to Little Leaf the goat and Ellie the pup-much needed furry friends!

I guess hiker bros are also furry friends, and I need them too. Goodnight from some much needed rest after the Basin beat me up a little more than I expected it would. Back on trail tomorrow!